Aregua, Paraguay: Strawberry Capital and Colonial Lakeside Town on Lago Ypacarai

Aregua is Paraguay’s strawberry capital — a colonial town of 20,000 on the shores of Lago Ypacarai, 30km east of Asuncion via Ruta 2, the oldest continuously inhabited town in Paraguay (founded 1538, predating Asuncion’s definitive founding), and the craft and agriculture center of Central department. At 100m altitude on the eastern shore of Paraguay’s most famous lake, Aregua produces the majority of Paraguay’s strawberry crop (the Frutilla de Aregua — strawberries from Aregua — are among Paraguay’s most recognized agricultural products, sold in Asuncion markets from June through September) and has developed the most significant artisan craft tradition in Central department: the Aregua ceramics (distinctive hand-painted clay figures in bright colors representing Paraguayan rural life, animals, and folklore characters) and the lace (nanduti — Paraguay’s traditional spider-web lace) workshops concentrated along the lakeside streets.

The Strawberry Economy and Seasonal Visits

The Aregua strawberry season (June–September, peaking in July–August) transforms the town into Paraguay’s most visited agricultural tourism destination — the roadside strawberry stalls lining Ruta 2 for 5km approaching Aregua, the strawberry-picking farms accessible for visitors, and the strawberry-based food products (strawberry jam, strawberry chicha, strawberry ice cream, strawberry dulce de leche) at the lakeside craft market create the most commercially vivid agricultural tourism experience in Paraguay. The National Strawberry Festival (Festival de la Frutilla, typically held in July) draws visitors from Asuncion and the surrounding departments for the strawberry queen election, the agricultural exhibitions, and the food market. Outside strawberry season, Aregua is quieter — the craft market, the colonial church, and the lakeside walks are the draws.

Cost of a Day Trip to Aregua

Aregua is almost exclusively a day trip from Asuncion — the 30-minute bus ride ($1–2 each way) makes it the most accessible out-of-city excursion in the Asuncion metro area. There are a few small guesthouses for those wanting a quiet overnight on the lake, but the majority of visitors arrive and return same-day. The extremely low cost of the bus trip and local food makes Aregua one of Paraguay’s best-value day experiences.

Climate

Subtropical at 100m on the lakeshore — similar to Asuncion but moderated slightly by Lago Ypacarai. Summer (October–March): 26–36°C. Winter (June–August): 12–22°C — the strawberry season coincides with the most comfortable weather. The lake creates morning mist in winter that burns off by 9am.

Things To Do

• Lakeside craft market — The Aregua craft market (concentrated along the streets descending to Lago Ypacarai) is Paraguay’s best single concentration of traditional crafts: the polychrome clay figures (boto’i — the traditional Aregua clay horses, birds, and human figures in the distinctive bright-painted rustic style), nanduti lace (the spider-web lace traditionally made in Itaugua but sold widely in Aregua), embroidered tablecloths, leather goods, and the seasonal strawberry preserves. Prices are lower than in Asuncion’s tourist markets and the selection is broader.
• Lago Ypacarai and the train station ruins — The historic Aregua train station (the 19th-century Ferrocarril President Carlos Antonio Lopez — Paraguay’s first railway, built 1861) has its most photogenic station building at Aregua: the small wooden colonial station is one of the best-preserved station structures on the line and a popular photography subject against the backdrop of the lake. The lakeside promenade connects the station to the boat launch area where small fishing boats and occasional weekend pleasure craft are moored.
• Colonial church and the 1538 founding — The Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion church in Aregua’s central plaza (the current structure dating from the 18th century, on the site of the original 1538 chapel) is the oldest church foundation in Paraguay — the town’s 1538 founding predates Asuncion’s formal establishment by several years. The colonial-era cemetery adjacent to the church is one of the few well-preserved 18th-century cemeteries in the Asuncion region.

Getting There

From Asuncion: the Empresa Aregua bus from the Asuncion bus terminal (Terminal de Omnibus) or from the Pettirossi market stop takes 30–40 minutes to Aregua via Ruta 2 ($1–2 each way, frequent service). By car: 30 minutes east on Ruta 2 to the Aregua turnoff, then 3km south to the lake. San Bernardino (on the western shore of Lago Ypacarai) is 15km further along the lake shore — the two towns are often combined in a day trip.

FAQ

What is nanduti lace and where does it come from?

Nanduti (Guarani for “spider web”) is Paraguay’s traditional hand-made lace — intricate circular patterns created on a cushion with dozens of pins and thread, resembling a spider’s web in its radiating geometric structure. The technique was introduced by Spanish colonists in the 16th century, adapted by Paraguayan women into a distinctive regional style. The town of Itaugua (30km west of Aregua on Ruta 1) is the primary nanduti production center — the Itaugua nanduti festival (July) is the largest artisan festival in Paraguay. Aregua craft markets carry nanduti from both local producers and Itaugua suppliers. Authentic nanduti is hand-made on pins — machine-made imitations are common in tourist markets; the hand-made version has slight irregularities and takes 4–8 hours per piece to produce.

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